A cohen i need this solution if some one help me. Thomas Foster test bank. Ifeachor and Barrie W. My name is Lilo. Riggs, M. Hi Team, Can you please provide me the below test bank or solutions manual for the below subjects :- 1. Global Strategy 3rd Edition Mike Peng 5. Please let me know if you have it. Thanks, Ken psymi Thanks before.
Dear Brother i need solution manual of Financial Markets and institutions by Jeff Madura 10 th edition. Highly Respect for you My email: texpe Have you spent lot of money in buying a book of solutions instead of getting particular solution? Not to worry. Here we are to reduce your e-solution expenses. We deal with Engineering subjects mentioned below: Civil Engineering Mechanical Engineering Electrical Engineering Chemical Engineering Computer Science Engineering All you need to do is while sending a request you should include e-book link or the complete problem and Book Name.
You will get your solution in 2 days. We will send you the solutions in 2 days after receiving your request. You can send us a request for minimum 5 number of solutions. The particular problems will be solved by our experts and professionals.
Directly send us a mail to jaspe Harrison Jr. Horngren , C. Can you please send me testbank plus manual for the following two books? Life-span development 14th Ed. Santrock, J.
Goldstein, E. Solution manual to options, futures and other derivatives, 8th edition. The three terminals on the left side assuming you're in front of the transmitter are from left to right looking at this side 6, 7 and 2.
On the right side the four terminals are left to right 1 and 3 on top and 4 and 5 on the bottom. Be aware that the screen windings have a different DC resistance on early units. The change occurred about the middle of the ARTA contracts. It looks like the wire used for the the screen winding was increased in diameter for better durability which would then have the same turns ratio but a lower DCR.
It's also possible that many of the earlier Mod transformers were noisy. I have also tested ARTA sn: that has the early style mod xmfr and have found that it also is somewhat "noisy. Terminal 2 is the CT of the winding.
This test measures the DCR of the screen winding. If the transformer measures close to these DCRs, it is likely in good condition and useable. If you have that switch in the TUNE position, you'll have a 25K short to chassis on the screen windings.
Testing the Antenna Current Meter - This is an AC current meter that is driven with an adjustable core, single-turn transformer. The meter is. The Function Generator will have a very low output Z - probably 50 ohms. The polarity to the meter doesn't matter but you will have to disconnect it from T, the Antenna Current Transformer. Set the function generator frequency to anything higher than kc - it's not critical.
It takes a pretty high level sine wave signal to move the Antenna Current meter needle but 15 volts Pk-Pk should read 2. Again, you'll have to disconnect the meter for testing by either method. Generally, these meters were pretty reliable and are seldom non-functional. Older style VOM meters can apply enough voltage in some of the ohm scaling to do possible damage to the ART's multimeter. With a DMM, you will see some deflection of the meter needle. Be sure to observe the correct polarity.
You are only checking the meter's continuity with this test, not its accuracy. To check the accuracy you would need a small DC voltage source that is adjustable and a to ohm load resistor. Use the load resistor to limit the DC voltage source and connect the meter, the load resistor and the DMM in series with the DC voltage source. It will read how much current is necessary to drive the meter FS. It should be very close to 1. The T. These are mentioned here because some ART variations will be found without the Toilet Seats installed.
This is correct for certain sub-model variations. All ATC versions don't have toilet seats. NT is another variation that did not have the protective covers and there may be others. Check the panel carefully for originality if the Toilet Seats are missing. Original installations use rivets to mount the covers so any removal operation would be obvious.
Photos only show so much and detail is often lacking. Most of the time the seller doesn't show what is important and has several irrelevant photos. You should ask questions or ask for more photos. Generally, if the transmitter appears to be in great condition, then it probably is complete and was stored carefully. You won't know the condition of the components unless the seller has taken the time to test them and will guarantee their condition. Buying online, especially on eBay, will result in paying the highest price, plus paying for shipping where damage may also occur.
Since you will be paying "top dollar," you should be assured that the transmitter is in good condition and will be packed carefully for shipping. Consequently, finding an ART in modified condition is fairly common. Some of the mods were intended to increase the transmitter's frequency coverage.
There were mods to extend the lower end to cover M, although many ARTs will tune about 25kc into the top of the M band without any modification.
There were other mods to extend the upper end to 10M. The 10M mod pretty much did extensive damage that is difficult to restore to original. Again, damage to the connector panel is usually irreparable. Try to stay away from modified ART transmitters. There are a several minor upgrades or modifications out there that have some benefit and enhance the performance but generally the ART can be operated in its original configuration without any problems.
Available on BAMA. Several other manuals were published over the years. Some are available on-line but the majority of these lesser known manuals have to be purchased from other sources.
By now you should be considering how you're going to power up your ART when you finish the restoration. I'm not trying to talk the potential ART operator out of using an original Dynamotor set-up but there are several "pit-falls" that will surface when attempting this method of operation. The initial purchase of the equipment necessary to operate the dynamotor will be fairly expensive but one should remember, once a high-current power supply is purchased, you can run almost any dynamotor set-up with it.
However, due to the fact that many ART owners aren't necessarily vintage military radio enthusiasts, building an AC-operated power supply is the least expensive and most common approach taken to power up an ART Usually the most time consuming part of the entire ART restoration project is deciding how to power the transmitter and then obtaining the necessary components to accomplish the task.
The following information comparison may help you come to a decision. There is a small third pin for the shield in the original connector. The dynamotor is connected to the ART via a shielded cable that utilizes two different types of Cannon plugs.
The dynamotor-side uses a 10 pin male plug and the transmitter-side uses a 10 pin female plug. All three of the original Cannon plugs are available for many sources although they are not cheap!
Generally, the power cable has to be built. These are the minimum gauge size that should be used. Larger wire sizes have less voltage drop. The power cable has to be shielded. I use the braid removed from RG-8U coax. Push the coax shield together to expand its inner diameter and then sleeve it over the 10 wire cable. Once in place, pull the shield tight and wrap the entire cable with two layers of electrician's tape.
Install the connectors and be sure to connect the shield using a "drain wire" to the connector shell on both ends. The ART manual will have a schematic and breakdown of the the power cable. Use minimum of 8 gauge wires 6 gauge is better and connect the shield to the small pin of the connector.
Be sure that the shield is connected to the negative of your high current DC power supply. The differences in the four versions of the dynamotors are locations of the reset switches which are on top of the base on the DY and DY The reset switches are on the front panel of the DY models.
The end bells differ on all three models with the DY having a circular screened vents, the DY has six spokes in its screened vents and the DY has three spokes in its screened vents. Although there are some minor circuit changes between the models these changes don't affect how the dynamotors power any of the ART transmitters. The DY and DY are difficult to find and usually are in original condition which means they may require some rebuilding to function well.
The DY is the more common version but it's still difficult to locate. Since most casual ART "parts collector-dealers" think the DY is the only proper dynamotor, it is usually the most expensive one to purchase, if it can be found.
Same holds true for the later DYA. In all cases, any newly purchased dynamotor should be serviced before using. Another word of caution on dynamotors in general, A shorted armature might require rewinding and, if you can find anyone to do it, the costs will be staggering. If you want to go the dynamotor route, try to arrange a test of the unit prior to purchase to see if it will operate correctly when powering an ART Even with a shorted output-side armature, the dynamotor will rotate since the motor-side winding is okay making the tester think the dynamotor works.
However, under load trying to operate an ART the defective dynamotor will "bog down" and not rotate at speed due to the excessive load of the shorted armature and the ART You must test the dynamotor actually powering up an ART before you know it's usable. Also, this is the current that the dynamotor can supply, not the current that the ART requires.
Dynamotor Operation - If you decide to go original and use one of the dynamotor-battery combinations, here's some other things to think about. The batteries will have to be kept charged in some manner. Charging lead-acid batteries in the house or ham shack can be dangerous and certainly is smelly.
This is where the ART runs best. Typical power output using the dynamotor on just batteries will be around 60W to 70W. This is due to the speed that the dynamotor turns. At lower battery voltages, the dynamotor speed drops and so does the voltage along with the transmitter power output. Although when turning at full speed and powering the transmitter the dynamotor load and the transmitter load requires around 35 amps, the initial starting current required by the motor section of the dynamotor is close to amps.
Although this starting current is very high it only lasts for a few milliseconds, that is, until the armature begins to move at which time the current demand drops rapidly as the motor armature comes up to speed. Even though the high current demand is for a very short duration, many modern, high current DC power supplies with current fold-back circuitry or other types of protection circuits will "see" the dynamotor as a "short circuit" and prevent the power supply from operating.
The exceptions are some of the earlier military heavy-duty AC power supplies. These are early style "linear" supplies that can handle the surge current demand since it only lasts for a few milliseconds. These types of heavy-duty power supplies can provide enough current to start the ART dynamotors.
Also, there are portable airport-type power supplies used for starting airplane engines. However, "expensive" is an understatement. More details on the PP below. The batteries will provide the 90 to amps necessary for the initial starting current of the dynamotor. In essence, this combination simulates how the ART operated while on the aircraft aloft. This system may work with high current linear power supplies that have current fold-back circuits, but experimentation would be necessary since I haven't tried that combination.
However, the hassle of running both batteries and a high current power supply seems to complicate a problem that can be easily solved by using either the PP or GRC PS. The PP was built for years by many different contractors. The Gladding-Keystone version I have is from The latest contract version I've seen was from With a little searching, a PP should be pretty easy to find. Operation - Using the PP to operate dynamotors eliminates most of the headaches since the power supply is capable of providing the starting current without hesitation.
Also, since the PPC can be adjusted to over 40vdc output voltage, adjusting to 28vdc under load is easy and allows the ARTdynamotor combo to run efficiently and with maximum RF output power to watts typically. Credits Procedures Guides These guides are a ready reference for writers and staff members who propose writing credits, prepare and submit Notices of Tentative Writing Credits to the Guild for Guild signatory production companies, and gather materials for credit arbitrations on Guild projects.
Menu Close. Know Your Rights. Start Button Notify the Guild when you start a screenwriting project. Find a Writer Search members by name or background.
Agency List See the Guild signatory agency list. Signatory Lookups Find signatory projects and companies. Membership Information. Employment Resources.
0コメント